Of Battles and Vultures – the Desfiladero de Pancorbo
Birding Spots on our Journey between UK and Portugal
On our way to Portugal almost invariably we camp in the Aire de Repos on the French Spanish border called Aire de Bidart – a great spot for tents or small camper vans. The following morning we pass Vitoria-Gasteis and head towards Burgos on the N1. Just past Miranda de Ebro the main road, the parallel A1 motorway, and the railway cross undulating countryside for 10 kilometres and are then squeezed through a precipitous gorge – the Desfiladero de Pancorbo. The gorge is short and dramatic, and a brilliant place for a coffee stop!
A Site of Battles and Skirmishes Over the Centuries
The Desfiladero de Pancorbo is the historic route through the Obarenes Mountains, separating the north of Spain and the Castilian Plateau. It has played an important defensive role stretching back to at least Morrish times, and probably Roman and pre-Roman. Latterly, during the Peninsular War, it was here that the Spanish army under the command of Lieutenant General Joaquin Blake slowed the advance of Napoleon’s army towards Madrid.
This association of battlefields with our particular interest here, the vultures, is of course entirely coincidental. The sheer rock faces of the gorge offer a perfect habitat and nesting place for many types of birds, including Peregrine Falcons, Ravens, Egyptian and Griffon Vultures.
A Well established Colony of Griffon Vultures
Without straying any distance from the road it’s possible to see Griffons soaring at any time of the year. I can’t think of an occasion when we haven’t seen them – through the heat of summer, and the snow and mist of autumn and winter. Sometimes we’ve had to wait a little while the coffee brewed, but sure enough one and then several come gliding through.
There have been times when the views have been superb, with the Griffons lazily circling close and low, before landing and standing in their inimitable way on a small ledge above our heads. See our other site for more on the Griffon Vulture and its identification: https://livinginnortheastportugal.woodcockwood.com/?p=189
We often see Ravens, various types of swallows flying high, Black Redstarts, Stone Chats and during the summer the occasional Egyptian Vulture (they are the only European vulture that migrates in winter).
The Village of Pancorbo
In inclement weather we occasionally forego our own coffee making and head to the small cafe bar in the square, a few minutes away from the stopping place.
The village is small and beautifully preserved. It is separated from the handful of modern buildings that have sprung up on the far side of the railway, to service the commercial traffic of the N1, and this clear separation adds to the charm of old Pancorbo.
Directions to Pancorbo
When heading south, in order to get to the ideal spot for brewing a coffee and watching this display you need to be on the N1. As you near the Desfiladero you will pass the Monumento Al pastor, and the Hotel de Desfiladero. By now you are in the gorge. You pass a small chapel carved into the rock and you take the first turn to the right, a narrow tarmac road that will take you the short distance to the historic village of Pancorbo. But before you reach the village, stop. The cliffs loom sheer and high above you. To your left the two roads and the railway cut through the gorge, and above them and beyond are the rocky outcrops of the Obarenes Mountains.
It is here that we stop, just outside of the village. Look up, and you will soon see perched and circling Griffons, and whatever else happens to be there at the time. Swirling cloud and even snow shouldn’t hinder your view.
When heading north, you would need to turn off the N1 immediately before the village at the Pancorbo sign, and pass through the village to the stopping spots on the northern side.
See others in the series “Birding Spots On Our Journey”
- Marsh Harriers at Valbuena: https://woodcockwood.com/marsh-harrier-identification-features/
- European Bee-eaters at Valbuena: https://woodcockwood.com/the-european-bee-eater/
- Great Bustards and Lesser Kestrels in the Tierra de Campos: https://woodcockwood.com/great-bustards-and-lesser-kestrels/